A Gilda in the Time of Genocide: Fantastical Realities from Gaza to El Xampanyet
What if the world we live in today is no less fantastical than the books we once called fantasy? I’ve always struggled to connect with fantasy literature—Unless it’s magical realism from the Spanish-speaking world. But lately, real life has started to feel more surreal than the novels I used to dismiss.
From political imprisonments in Istanbul to the genocide unfolding in Gaza, the world has slipped into something dreamlike—or nightmarish. This was the context in which I found myself walking through the foggy echoes of fascist Barcelona—not guided by history books, but by the pen of Carlos Ruiz Zafón… and finally with a Gilda skewer in El Xampanyet.
And yet, there are such historical moments that don’t seem much different to me than the fantastical novels I can’t make sense of. As we reach the end of the first quarter of the 21st century, in the year 2025, the state of the world feels like one of those periods. While civilians are slaughtered endlessly and blatantly in Gaza — tens of thousands burned, bombed, gunned down — and a genocide unfolds in front of our eyes, no one says a word… This no longer feels like reality to me. If those who should see don’t see, and those who should act do nothing, then maybe it’s not reality after all.
Then there’s the President of the United States, Donald Trump… Didn’t he throw us into a fantastic world? Trump doesn’t write a novel— he creates one. One day, he combs his hair to one side; the next day, to the other. He leaves you thinking, “Let whatever is going to happen, happen. Let it end. If we’re going to die, so be it. But what will happen to our children? What will happen to the world?”
A fantastic wind is also blowing in Istanbul, the city where I was born. The current mayor of a city with a population of sixteen million, who announced his candidacy for the presidency of Türkiye in the next election, was imprisoned for corruption a few days later after the university degree he earned in the previous century was revoked by the government. Most people — or let’s say the majority — say this is a political coup designed to eliminate the strongest possible rival to current President Erdoğan. No forge evidence, no false witnesses, they didn’t even bother setting up a scheme that would technically qualify as a crime under existing laws.… Isn’t that fantastic?
The mayor of the largest city in Türkiye — one of the world’s top twenty economies, the second largest armed force in NATO after the US, with territory in both Europe and Asia — and perhaps the next president is being arrested by hundreds of police officers who come to the door of his residence. Fantastic, right?
Living in Barcelona during the bloody and dark era of the Franco dictatorship must’ve felt just as fantastical just as much as living today in Gaza, Istanbul, or anywhere else in the world. Like living in Germany during Hitler’s rise…
Carlos Ruiz Zafón is the author of gripping novels featuring characters who roam the dark, narrow alleys of Barcelona, always watching their backs, getting caught in ambushes, and chasing forgotten books while trying to become writers themselves. I just finished The Prisoner of Heaven, the third book in his famous and bestselling series The Cemetery of Forgotten Books. The backdrop for the story which takes place nearly a century ago, is— of course — the Barcelona neighborhoods and streets, and its restaurants and bars, some of which are still active. Though labeled as fantasy literature, this third book didn’t feel as fantastic to me as the first two. It’s quite a realistic piece of writing. Under the weight of Franco’s fascism, it’s said that Barcelona’s people could only survive by making pacts with either devils or angels!
One of the bars mentioned in the book, El Xampanyet, still exists and I had recently visited it. Unique homemade champagne of this bar — that I left with the hope of returning as soon as possible, Xampanyet, is still served.… And I am glad to be part of such fantastic stories.
Since my wife and I went around noon, we didn’t have to wait long. Even at lunchtime, a 30-minute queue is normal, but we got lucky. They announced two standing spots at the bar and asked down the line. We jumped at the chance, and got in within five minutes. For dinner, which starts at 7:00 PM, there’s already a queue before they even open. If you’re late, be ready to wait an hour. Embrace the wait. Waiting adds to the flavor. Being hungry enhances taste. And a queue means it is always full and crowded. That classic bodegaatmosphere the crowd creates will only add more flavor. Wait it out…
We squeezed into a space barely big enough for one and a half people. While scanning the menu, we ordered two glasses of Xampanyet. My eyes, of course, were on the tapas lined up on the counter and what others were eating. A shortcut, a rushed approach… But that’s the wrong move. Especially when I’m hungry, I tend to order in a rush and end up full but unsatisfied. So it’s best to sip a drink first — a delicious way to manage curiosity and hunger.
The second step is, of course, ordering a Gilda! I couldn’t shake off the fear of it running out. I try Gilda everywhere I go and here it’s one of the best. The green olive is like a Kalamata, very flavorful. The anchovy is soft but tasty, not too salty. Though I thought there was a bit too much oil on top and I wasn’t very happy with the quality of the oil. Still, overall, the Gilda was good.
The Spanish omelet with chorizo (Truita de patates amb xoriço) was amazing. Perfectly cooked, moist inside, flavorful eggs, and excellent chorizo.
The Catalan sausage, Botifarra, was very tasty. But the Pluma ibérica en ració is a must-try for beef lovers — grilled meat served with padrón peppers.
The calamari, Calamars amb samfaina, despite its fantastic presentation and delicious sauces, didn’t quite appeal to my palate. And don’t forget to order Pa amb tomàquet (Pan con tomate), otherwise, you won’t be able gobble down those plates!
Next time, I want to sit in the same corner as Daniel and Fermín, the novel’s characters, and try more seafood, especially the Bacallà amb cigrons and Mongetes amb calamarcets. That is, cod with chickpeas, and beans with baby squid.